How eating out works here
Tipping is not common practice in Tokyo or other parts of Japan. At izakayas, do not tip when paying the bill, which is settled at a cash register by the door rather than at your table.[2],[7]
Most bars and izakaya apply a seating charge and serve a customary small dish prior to ordering. Some bars have cover charges and may serve a small appetizer in lieu of a seating charge. Once seated, you'll receive an oshibori towel to clean your hands, either cold and sealed in plastic or handed to you warm, and you will probably be served a small appetizer, or otoshi, for which there will be a small charge.[2],[7]
At izakayas, order a drink first from the menu, which is often written by hand on papers posted on the restaurant's walls. The menu probably won't be in English, especially in yokocho favored by locals over tourists. Izakayas serve small dishes that aren't too filling, so order several to enjoy a variety of local specialties — it's common to start with sashimi and move on to grilled meats, fish, or seasonal vegetables. Izakayas aren't generally open during the day, as they are popular with the after-work crowd, and they'll likely close at midnight, with the last order taken 30 minutes to an hour before closing.[7]
At ramen shops, even if you don't see any servers, you can choose your dish using a food ticket vending machine that accepts cash. The machine will most likely be written in Japanese but has pictures and prices next to the buttons; if you're completely lost, politely ask for some guidance — simply saying "ramen?" will get the job done. Ramen shops are typically small and rely on fast customer turn around, so don't linger too long after your meal. Slurping is considered the correct way to eat ramen.[6]
Sushi etiquette is simpler than it looks: there is no hard and fast rule when it comes to enjoying sushi. The wasabi in Japan is usually real, not colored horseradish like most shops overseas, and it's usually added by the chef before serving. Gari, or pickled ginger, is served on the side as a palate cleanser between different fish, and you can also use the green tea served as a palate cleanser. Use soy sauce sparingly — to accent and highlight the flavor of the fish, not to cover it up — and try to touch only the fish, not the rice, with the sauce. Eat each piece in one bite. If you're having a hard time with chopsticks, it's perfectly acceptable to use your hands for rolls and nigiri sushi, but bring the chopsticks back out for the sashimi. Go easy on cologne and perfume, since sushi has many delicate flavors.[5]
A few more ground rules: bring cash because many smaller restaurants don't accept credit cards, and arrive early or go during off-hours to avoid long lines at popular restaurants. Don't rub your chopsticks together, as it is seen as an insult to the establishment. Although making noises while eating is generally considered bad manners, slurping soba noodles is considered a way of enjoying the flavor in Japan. Bars and restaurants in Japan typically don't allow smoking indoors, but smoking is possible in stores that have met certain requirements or in special smoking rooms. Smoking and drinking on the streets outside yokocho establishments is prohibited.[2],[3],[7]